Diego’s pick - July 2020
We could openly say that Torrontes is the white equivalent to Malbec when it comes to Argentine wines, but even more distinctive as this variety is uniquely produced in Argentina. Although Torrontes is made throughout the country, the high altitude vineyards of the North region deliver the world famous Torrontes Riojano.
The Torrontes was possibly discovered between late-18th and early-19th centuries. It originated by the cross between the Muscat of Alexandria and the Criolla Chica, both introduced during the long Spanish colonial period. In Argentina, these two grapes mutated and joined forces to produce something unique.
There are currently three types of Torrontes: Riojano, Mendocino and Sanjuanino. These are relatively similar as they are fresh, aromatic wines with moderate acidity, a smooth texture on the palate and distinctive aromas of peach and apricot. But each variety has appreciable differences. Torrontes Riojano and Sanjuanino tend to have large clusters with pale grapes, while Mendocino has smaller and tighter clusters with dark yellow grapes. The Riojano is the most elegant and aromatic of the three, with an aroma reminiscent of Muscat and Gewürtztraminer wines, with refreshing acidity and no bitterness.
The key to Torrontes is altitude, with the best Torrontes Riojano growing in Cafayate, where cooler nights enable the grapes to retain acidity and fine flavors.
Considered the most famous Criolla variety, it is one of the most widespread white wines in Argentina that has achieved remarkable international recognition in the last decade. Many, accustomed to the subtleties of other white varieties, do not understand its voluptuousness. They say - you either love it or hate it!
This month I would love to introduce you to a special Torrontes from Cafayate, Salta: Laborum Torrotes Single Vineyard. This wine is produced by family-owned winery El Porvenir in one of its four estate, Finca El Retiro, located at 1,650 m.a.s.l. This 65-year old vineyard has very deep soil with no rocks and pergola (parra-system) which yields around 15,000 bottles per year.
El Porvenir is currently run by Lucia Romero Marcuzzi (3rd generation), who has brought her personal style and modern techniques to Salta, while maintaining the local spirit intact. She has put together a very experienced team which is clearly contributing to the quality of the wines year after year.
Laborum Torrotes Single Vineyard is a young wine, ideal for immediate consumption. It is bright yellow with greenish tones. It has a fruity and fresh aroma of roses along with nice citric notes. In the mouth it is fresh and fruity, with good structure, balanced and with a very nice acidity. It is a refreshing alternative to classic Chardonnay or Pinot Grigio and perfect for summer!
I would encourage you to taste this Torrontes and decide for yourself!
Cheers!
Pictures credits to: www.instagram.com/elporvenirwines
