Ceviche meets Criolla

A couple of weeks ago, restaurants and bars were finally re-opened in The Netherlands after almost 3 months of Covid restrictions. Amsterdam itself slowly is restarting to see some buzz, with streets filled up with locals enjoying the long-warmer days, getting together again with friends and restarting the longed-for social life.

Our first night out was at Nazka, in our beloved neighborhood, the Pijp. This is a one-of-a-kind restaurant in the city run by Dutch-Peruvian entrepreneur, Raul Lansink that opened last year. Nazka is the first fine-dinning Peruvian restaurant in Amsterdam, with a simple and colorful ambiance, warm and perfect service and where the focus is clearly on the quality of its food. Peruvian chef, Cristian Motte, has come up with a fixed 4-course menu with both traditional and innovative Peruvian dishes, which will surprise your senses and take you through a modern trip through Peruvian heritage.

When it comes to wines, Nazka’s sommelier Antonello Nicastri, has assembled an impressive wine list. From La Puglia, Italy, Antonello is the third pillar that has contributed to Nazka’s gourmet experience with his wine selection. We suggest to follow Antonello's advice for the perfect pairing (wines, sake or cocktails) throughout the menu.

The first course is a delicious Ceviche - the world famous Peruvian dish: kingfish, rocoto(*) Leche de Tigre, sweet potato, red onion and aji panca sauce.

Antonello pairs this delicious Ceviche with a Criolla varietal from Proyecto Las Compuertas.

“ People often think it is crazy to start dinner with fish and red wine. Who said it is wrong? Already looking at the bright red colours of the dish, I thought of a red wine to start this journey from the sense of sight, the red of the rocoto is in perfect harmony with the bright ruby red of this Argentine wine. The combination of the colours opens my senses, I would like to taste in my mouth the perfect combination I see. Then comes the balance on the palate, which is even more enhanced, the tasty profile of the raspberry perfectly merges with the juiciness and meatiness of the chili and adds softness to the surprising heat. The sweet pungent notes of the red onion will enhance the sweet spiciness of the wine. In the end, the lively acidity of the wine emphasizes the kingfish as if it was a squeeze of lemon. Pure harmony for a very great ceviche delivered from a great red wine.”

The history of viticulture and wine in America cannot be understood without Creole (Criolla) varieties. With this generic name a group of descendants of European relatives is known, some born in America through natural crosses and others introduced by cuttings or seeds. When we talk about Criolla we refer to Cereza, Criolla Grande, Criolla Chica, Pedro Giménez, Rose Moscatel and Yellow Moscatel.

Originally from Castilla-La Mancha where it is known as Listán Prieto (actually has been disappeared from Spain mainland, but there are still planted on the Canary Islands), this variety receives infinity of names depending on the geography. Known as Pais in Chile, Criolla Chica in Argentina, Mission in the United States, Misión in Mexico and as Negra Peruana in Peru. It was initially planted in Mexico towards the middle of the 16th century from where it traveled to Peru and later to Argentina and Chile. It also traveled to California with Franciscan monks and from there its name, Mission.

Proyecto Las Compuertas - Criolla Chica (2019) made by the Durigutti brothers in Luján de Cuyo, Mendoza. Vineyards from 1943, is fermented with native yeast and aged in Concrete eggs, halfway through the process the skins are separated, and fermentation proceeds as that of a white wine. Total production 3,470 bottles.

A must restaurant for food & wine lovers.

Tot ziens.

Previous
Previous

Diego’s pick - July 2020

Next
Next

Diego’s Pick - June 2020